I arrived in Chaitén - a town that was almost completely destroyed by the eruption of Volcano Chaitén in 2008. Today the town is still scarred but is bouncing back. It serves as the jumping off point for exploring Pumalín Park. I spent a week hiking the short but  artfully constructed trails that are spaced at intervals along the section of the Carretera Austral that runs through the park. Strikingly turquoise, completely clear streams fall as myriad waterfalls within the endless folds of the thickly vegetated mountainous woodlands. Damp rainforest contrasted against volcanic moonscapes and glacial snow caps.