From El Chaltén, Argentina I traveled through the "backdoor" to Chile via a three day hike. I passed along the shores of a lake inhabited only by the Argentinian customs agents, and through a long stretch of wilderness to a very remote pass where a metal structure stood demarcating the divide between Argentina and Chile. I then hiked down to the shore of Lago O'Higgins (the deepest lake in the Americas). I was able to catch the twice a week ferry to the tiny frontier town of Villa O'Higgins. This settlement is the southern terminus of the epic Carretera Austral, a road that spans 1,200+ kilometers of wild Chilean Patagonia. The dirt road was not extended to Villa O'Higgins until 2000, and I soon experienced how far it still is from the globalized world when I was forced to travel 500+ kilometers north to the nearest ATM.